La cuna del pionono
Santa Fe contiene desde hace varias generaciones un tesoro muy especial, Casa Ysla, la cuna del pionono, allí está la principal tienda y oficina central, creada hace 14 años, pilar de las 3 franquicias situadas en Jaén, Almería y Granada y de las 14 tiendas propias que tiene distribuidas por toda nuestra ciudad granadina, negocio al que Ramiro se unió desde el año 1975, cuando comenzó con 13 años a trabajar a diario en la pastelería, después de años de ayudar a su padre, desde muy niño, los fines de semana, junto a sus hermanos, en la cocina.
Gerente y propietario en cuarta generación, desde el creador del pionono original, Ceferino Ysla Rodríguez, bisabuelo de Ramiro, nos habla con orgullo de esta singular tradición familiar, destacando su autenticidad con respecto a todos los piononos que se ofrecen en Granada, de los que nos dice con una sonrisa que son muy buenas copias de un producto que es el pionero, y del que surgieron todos los demás.
Comercializando estos pasteles cada vez demandados, en los años 70, Casa Ysla, ya era un referente importante de la pastelería de Granada, su éxito era indiscutible, desde la primera tienda en la calle Real de Santa Fe, lugar de fabricación original del pionono, situada a 30 metros de la estatua construida por los lugareños a Ceferino, y que está presente de esta forma y con honor, en cada pastel que disfrutan sus clientes.
Ceferino Ysla Rodriguez creó el primer pionono en el año 1857 en un obrador que él mismo construyó en Santa Fe, había sido pastelero desde siempre, y conocedor de su gran talento se independizó para dar rienda suelta a su imaginación en la cocina, comenzando por crear un pastel simulando al Papa Pio IX, a raíz del Dogma de la Inmaculada y su gran devoción a la Iglesia, y es a este Papa, al que se le debe el nombre de este espectacular dulce.
Muchos personajes famosos han degustado los piononos de Casa Ysla, políticos de gran relevancia, como Adolfo Suarez, Carrillo, todos los alcaldes de Granada, y también la realeza, Ramiro nos cuenta con orgullo cuando Alfonso XIII visitaba Santa Fe, invitado por un duque de la zona a asistir a sus cacerías, y como pudo probar este delicioso dulce de manos de su anfitrión.
Maravillado por su sabor, nombró a la familia Ysla proveedores oficiales de la Casa Real, con la que no han perdido el contacto, y que como último encuentro tuvo la visita del Rey Felipe VI cuando era Príncipe, en el año 1992, en su viaje a Santa Fe, con motivo del Quinto Centenario de las Capitulaciones, y que no dejó pasar su visita al obrador para saborear tan ricos dulces y saludar al padre de Ramiro, que muy orgulloso le ofrecía sus creaciones.
Con una receta muy particular que guarda con especial cariño, y que pasa de padres a hijos, esta gran tradición tan conocida en Granada y tan propia de nuestra tierra, está compuesta por un dulce de azúcar, agua, leche y algo más que no nos cuenta, hecho de forma muy especial con ingredientes de alta calidad que Ramiro continúa creando desde una época en la que ninguna pastelería lo conocía, y qué dado el éxito de este dulce, en 1980 se unieron, intentando reproducir el pionono original, y que aún continúan haciéndolo sin llegar al origen de esta receta que tiene casi dos siglos de tradición.
Hay otros dulces de gran relevancia en Casa Ysla que complementan de forma muy significativa a los piononos de siempre, y que indican el afán de renovación y de innovación de la Casa, los pasteles Felipe, hechos con el bizcocho y la crema del pionono, cubiertos de un abundante merengue de la mejor calidad, que es una delicia para los visitantes, y que han conseguido también gran fama.
Todas las pastelerías de Casa Ysla están llenas de luz y de color, la decoración está especialmente pensaba para invitar a entrar a todo el que pase por su puerta, un ambiente limpio, blanco, en contraste con el color intenso de los pasteles, que pronto recibirán a las próximas generaciones como desde siempre, para que nunca se pierda este singular negocio.
Ramiro nos cuenta su secreto como empresario y del éxito de su negocio, que es la constancia, la calidad de la materia prima y sobre todo que la fabricación la continúe exclusivamente la familia, acompañada de un personal dinámico y muy implicado, encabezado por veteranos de total confianza que llevan toda la vida al servicio de Casa Ysla, enseñando a los que vienen, muchos de la Escuela de Hostelería de Granada, y que son la base del equipo, por su conocimiento a la perfección de la tradición de esta exquisitez granadina.
El pionono original seguirá en el tiempo, dando de comer a mucha gente, y expandiendo su marca, Casa Ysla, por todo el mundo, promocionándose por todos los medios de comunicación de España, y también desde otros países, cadenas de televisión dedicadas a la cocina se han interesado por esta receta a la que consideran un referente a seguir, cruzando estos grandes pasteleros fronteras internacionales, en Canadá, Reino Unido, e incluso distribuyendo su repostería a un convento de Japón, anécdota que Ramiro nos cuenta divertido, y que surgió hace 30 años a través de una monja del convento que vive en Santa Fe.
Ramiro, un luchador nato, un buen hombre orgulloso de su historia, llena de lucha y de triunfos, dirige esta Casa como un cariñoso padre para toda esta gran familia, que seguirá siendo considerada a través del tiempo por muchas generaciones más, dada su gran repercusión, como una de las pastelerías más antiguas y de mayor tradición.
Para más información
Dirección: Ctra. Santa Fe-Granada A92-G Km. 3.3 18320 Santa Fe (Granada)
Teléfono: 958 51 01 05
Email: info@pionono.com
Web: www.pionono.com
Autora de la entrevista: Ramona Ruiz Povedano
Posiblemente una de las mejores pastelerías de Granada 🙂 🙂
Para mi tienen los mejores piononos, vaya delicia para el paladar!!
Los originales siempre son los mejores!!! Tradición será siempre ir a Granada y parar en casa ysla para degustar este dulce.
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